Uniform Care1. Parade Shoes
To polish these, first strip them by gently heating in a flame from a candle or lighter, then use cotton wool or a rag to wipe off the polish as it melts. Do this until you reach leather. Then take a small amount of shoe polish - we recommend KIWI Parade Gloss - and get a small amount of water and some wet cotton wool. Put a little polish on the cotton wool and rub over the toe cap in small circles, covering the whole toe-cap. Continue with this circular motion until all the polish has all gone into the shoe, and repeat. After 20-30 minutes, your shoes should come to a high shine. NB: Good shoes will look like glass 2. Trousers (No1, standard, & Olive Green)
The aim is to get sharp creases all the way up the trousers. The ideal way to do this is to use a trouser press, but as not all of us happen to carry one around with us, we suggest laying the trousers flat on the ironing board. Then get some brown paper and lightly wet the sides of the trouser where the crease will go. After this, lay the paper over it, hot iron and push the crease in. Push down hard - within reason! - and move the iron over the length of the trousers, repeating for each leg. The creases should last for a long time. 3. Belt
The belt is relatively easy to polish. First remove the buckle by carefully rotating the bar on the back, with the teeth holding it onto the belt. Now take some metal polish, e.g. - Brasso, and wet some cotton wool with this. Then, in the same circular motion as parade shoe polishing, buff the whole of the belt buckle. After a short while your belt should come to a high shine. N.B. You frequently have to change your cotton wool as it soon goes black. 4. Jumper
This is probably the easiest to maintain. All that is needed to keep it in good condition is, if it starts to get "fluffy" then give it a quick shave, not literally with foam and razor, but by using a small, inexpensive razor. Being careful not to cut the jumper, remove any sticking out fibres. 5. Shirts (OG, Wedgewood and Working)
These are fairly easy to maintain - just ensure that they stay neatly ironed. There is no need for excessive ironing, All that is required is that no creases where there shouldn’t be, and that there are no marks or stains on it. Ensure there is a sharp crease running from the top of the shoulder to the cuffs, as on a normal shirt. For Working Blues The collar the top of the neck should be ironed into a v shape 6. Beret
First, steam your beret, e.g. - over a kettle, being careful not to burn yourselves. Remove from the steam, and when cold enough, place it on your head. Make sure that the beret badge over your left eye, and pull down the right side so that the badge sticks out a little. Then try and make the beret as smooth as possible. 7. Brassard
Iron until flat with no creases. Badges must be sewn on correctly 8. Combat Jacket
Iron until flat. Remember that it's DPM, so creases are hard to see. Iron all pockets flat against the jacket and sew on any missing buttons. 9. DPM Trousers
As above. 10. Combat boots
When on a night-ex or needing camouflage:
Clean with water to remove any dirt off and put on a thin layer of polish. These boots do not have to be shiny.
Shooting and non-camouflage boots:
Clean the boots with water, and then dry. Take 2 brushes and use one to put the polish on and the other to brush it in. Then use the same method as with parade shoes to buff the toecaps. Different uniform states 
Working Blue Uniform summer  Working Blue Uniform winter 
Wedgewood Uniform Summer 
Wedgewood Uniform Winter | 
Air Training Corps